Lady Gaga's Family Restaurant Hits a Sour Note With Reviewers
Joanne Trattoria Gets One Star (Out of Five) from a New York Critic
Having a world famous daughter is probably a boon when you're trying to launch a restaurant or any other business. But it also means bad news is going to travel even faster if that business gets a bad review.
Welcome to Joe and Cynthia Germanotta's world. The mom and pop of pop star Lady Gaga recently opened Joanne Trattoria on the Upper West Side of Manhattan, and while they were expecting fans of Gaga and Italian cooking to line up for a table, that may not happen after the eatery received less-than-stellar reviews from various New York publications.
How not stellar? New York Daily News restaurant critic Michael Kaminer gave the joint just one star out of five.
"As if on purpose, the place is missing the creativity and commitment that made their daughter a star," Kaminer writes. "The result is a careless, lifeless production that feels like a weird facsimile of a restaurant rather than the real thing."
Continues Kaminer, "When a wan Caprese salad with mealy tomatoes and cloying balsamic costs $18, should a server quip that cheese is sourced from 'whoever gets it to us cheapest' -- especially when the viscous mozzarella seems to bear that out?
"When a restaurant charges $18 for fried calamari, should the dish arrive so sloppily plated that it looks like the kitchen threw it back in the bowl after dropping it? Should the appetizer glow with grease or boast more breadcrumbs than squid? And should the accompanying marinara sauce taste like a powdered mix?
"The most edible appetizer, baked stuffed mushrooms ($14), still wouldn't pass muster in a diner," Kaminer writes
Meanwhile, the New York Post reviewer Steve Cuozzo, under the headline "You'll gag on the food at Gaga's," wrote that on opening night, "Appetizers took 50 minutes to arrive. Grilled calamari with bitter greens and radicchio were the worst I've had in a lifetime of squid-mongering, the salad unseasoned and the calamari like leather," and noted that famed chef Art Smith -- Oprah's former cook -- was also clearing the tables at the new place.
But there are several reviewers that give the restaurant just one star, noting it has "WORST SERVICE, GREAT FOOD," "the WORST Italian food I have ever had in my LIFE," "really big disappointment" and "possibly the worst food I've had in New York."